Beirut Guide for Expats in Detail
History
When living in any new country, it’s important to understand the interworking of the country based on the context in which it exists. The earliest evidence of civilization in the territory that is now Lebanon comes from the Neolithic and Chalcolithic periods (otherwise known as the “New Stone Age”). However, Lebanon is perhaps most famous for being the homeland of the Ancient Phoenicians from whom a sort of early world economy emerged between 1200 and 800 BCE. One interesting aspect of this territory is that while it was at many points the most powerful economic force in the region, evidence suggests that the inhabitants never adopted or put much emphasis on the idea of rulers or kingships as a necessary means of societal organization. In fact, over the course of thousands of years, this territory has been governed by myriad foreign empires. For further reading on the history of pre-modern Lebanon, check out Lebanon: A History, 600 – 2011 by William Harris, and for a short read that focuses on Ancient Phoenicia check out The Phoenicians: The History and Culture of One of the World’s Most Influential Civilizations by Charles River Editors.
As for the modern State of Lebanon, it is most beneficial to begin with a foundational understanding of how and under what circumstances the country was established. After having been a part of the Ottoman Empire for roughly 500 years, Lebanon was established as a French colony in 1926; and, later gained independence from France in 1943, establishing itself as the Lebanese Republic. For and understanding of the context in which Lebanon and other surrounding countries came into their current statehood, check out A Line in the Sand by James Barr Sir, and for an in-depth focus on Lebanon’s trajectory into statehood check out A History of Modern Lebanon by Fawwaz Traboulsi.
Culture
As is customary in Mediterranean countries, Lebanese communities place a great deal of importance on family, hospitality, and deep cultural ties to the local food and language. It is not uncommon to be invited to someone’s home or shown a level of generosity that an outsider may not be accustomed to. The important thing for outsiders to understand, is that while this show of generosity is genuine, one must learn when to say “when”. Part of integrating into society and learning the various forms of etiquette involve practicing the nuanced understanding of balance (i.e. how much to give and how much to take). Generally, a newcomer might notice the locals giving a lot more than the are taking-and this is the balanace that is typical. One may find themselves having to refuse politely multiple times in a row, and this is not taken offensively-the point is just to make sure that you are satisfied. You may also notice that receiving gifts or offerings is accompanied by ample "thank you's" in order to express deep gratitude. this is also not uncommon for individuals who are meeting each other for the first time.
On the topic of introducing oneself and greeting others, there are a few important insights to take into consideration. The first is on the topic of introducing oneself. It is most common to introduce oneself with a handshake. Men and women also shake hands, but usually a man waits for the women to put her hand out first because in some communities it is not customary for men and women who don’t know each other to shake hands. As for women who wear veils (known in Arabic as a hijab), it is customary for a man to substitute a handshake by putting his hand over his heart when greeting. The same might apply to women greeting men in the sense that there are also men who have the cultural or spiritual practice of refraining from shaking the hand of someone of the opposite sex. Usually there is some sort of slight nuanced cue in both cases whether a handshake is appropriate or not, and if a man who practices abstaining form handshakes, and he sees that you are not from Lebanon, then he may quickly put his hand over his heart in order to avoid any etiquette blunders. Although, if any etiquette blunders happen, there’s no need to worry—most people leave a lot of space and mercy for the new learner.
Beyond the handshake is the kiss on the cheek. This one is sometimes difficult even for Lebanese to navigate, not because of any social appropriateness per se, but rather because there are a lot of unasked questions that come into play. In many cases, one just does their best to feel it out and go with the flow. A very general rule of thumb for greeting good friends is three kisses on the cheek back and forth upon seeing each other (usually left-right-left), and possibly one kiss on the left cheek when saying goodbye. Don’t worry, there will be awkward moments—it’s okay.
The last insight for greetings, and arguably the most important one, is to always acknowledge someone when they walk into a room—even if you’re in the middle of work or deep in thought in this regard, a friendly "hi" will suffice; but, to remain silent can come off as awkward or a bit strange. Being social to the degree of a friendly "hello" will make a very positive difference in your work environment.
On the topic of things to avoid, it's advisable to not inquire about the religion of someone you don't know well. This is not because it's offensive per se, but rather because it is a custom that has developed due to historical reasons. Lebanon boasts 18 officially recognized religions, and is incredibly diverse in term of its communities; however, during the 15-year civil war (1975-1990), political divisions took on religious façades. Further details on these events can be found in the above-mentioned reading suggestions. In essence, religion generally a subject that most would rather keep private (even if the government does run on a confessional system). On a positive note, as you make friends, don’t be surprised if you get invited to eid el-adha festivities, iftar or a Christmas dinner!
Language
The official language of Lebanon is Arabic. One thing that most Arabic-learners find when coming to Lebanon, is that the formal Arabic that is taught in schools does not resemble the day-to-day variety of Arabic that is spoken by everyone. Many Arabic language scholars refer to this variety as Lebanese Arabic or Levantine Arabic. You may find that many of the words in formal Arabic have a Lebanese equivalent that is quite different. Most individuals who choose to study formal Arabic have goals related to reading publications and understanding news broadcasts, while who choose to study Lebanese Arabic have goals related to gaining proficiency in everyday communication. There are several institutes in and around Beirut who teach one or both types of Arabic, two of the most common being ALPS (located in Hamra), and the Saifi Institute (located in Gemmayze). Another option for those seeking to learn Arabic can generally find private tutors in their area of residence.
In addition to Arabic, French is widely spoken amongst many communities as it holds a special status in Lebanon having been the official language during the French Mandate period (1923-1943). Nowadays, greater emphasis is being placed on English as the second language, and you’ll find that English is widely spoken in Lebanon. In fact, English is so widely spoken, that it can sometimes present difficulties for English-speaking foreigners trying to learn Arabic, as many Lebanese will switch into English to acommodate you even if you're trying to stick to practicing Arabic. Nevertheless, persistence is key, and it’s usually taken as an admirable gesture to make a genuine attempt at learning the local language.
Residence Permits
Eastwood’s recently refurbished library is located on the top floor of our building with a commanding view of the whole of Beirut and the Mediterranean: a perfectly quiet and inspirational location in which to read and expand the mind. An ideal situation for obtaining a residence permit is through sponsorship. This way, you won’t need to provide much more than a passport, four to six passport-size photos, and a medical report to your organization or employer. In all cases, you will be required to make at least one visit to General Security where you’ll be asked basic questions about your business in Lebanon, and finally your signature on a few documents. If you are responsible for procuring your own residence permit, however, the process can have many more steps for you, and may not always seem very clear. One thing to always keep in mind is that things will be okay, it will all work out, and maintaining composure will work to your advantage. A good tip for efficiently procuring a residence permit is to get a list of all the documents you'll need, as well as the cost ( in Lebanese Lira/Pounds) that you'll have to pay at General Security. Once you have this list and you are certain that these are all of the required documents, you can begin gathering them before you make your way to General Security.
Housing
Finding housing can be a difficult task, however a good place to begin is the Facebook Group called Apartments in Beirut. There are some listings that fall outside of Beirut in the Metn region, however most are in and around the city. If you’re looking to live outside of Beirut, the easiest thing to do is to ask around about the available rentals or visit www.olxliban.com. Important things to find out are what the rent includes (electricity, generator, water, internet, trash) and if there is a deposit that is required. If certain amenities are not included in the price, then finding out the cost and how to pay the bills will make budgeting monthly expenses more efficient. Generally, mailboxes are not used in Lebanon, and there is not yet a way to bills online for most amenities. It is common to have the electricity, generator and internet bills delivered by courier to an entire building for immediate payment, so having those payments set aside in cash for when they come to your door is a good idea. Some apartment buildings will have a groundskeeper (natour in Arabic) who can assist with making sure these things go smoothly as well. This system might seem complex, but It’s very uncommon to be met with big issues regarding monthly payments, and if a bill collector comes while you’re not at home then they will most likely call you to see when they can come by again.
Three things to be aware of when looking for housing are water shortages, water quality and electricity cuts. Lebanon faces regular electricity cuts. In Beirut, these cuts are timed and last for three hours at a time. You can download an app on your phone called Beirut Electricity to find out when the cuts will be. Outside of Beirut, the cuts can last longer than three hours, and be random. This is the reason why so many people and business invest in a generator. If your housing situation does not include a generator, you may want to see if you can participate in a building generator share. As for water, many residents who live in the Hamra area have salt water coming from the tap instead of fresh water (sweet water). Outside of Hamra this isn’t as much of an issue, but it’s always good to check with your landlord or building manager before entering into any contract agreement. Lastly, during the summer months it is not unheard of for a residence to run out of water. Lebanon, as a country, has an abundance of water; however, the water system and infrastructure are still awaiting large-scale updates in order to bring out optimal efficiency in terms of how and from where water is distributed around the country.
Getting Around
There are many ways to get around in Lebanon using public transportation. The most common ways to get around are by taxi, Uber, Careem (the local system similar to Uber), and service (pronounced servees). Taking a service is akin to carpooling. Instead of a regular taxi fare, you pay 2,000 Lebanese Pounds. There are some limitations and guidelines to this. The first is that you only take a service to the general area that you’d like to go. You want to state the area you’re going to before you get into the cab. If the driver nods you to enter the cab, then you’ve agreed that it is a service, and therefore others can be picked up along the way. If his response to you is “taxi”, then you have the choice to refuse the ride or approach and inquire about the price. If you agree on the price, the driver may not pick up others along the way. Sometimes, if the distance is far or if there's a lot of traffic, the driver may respond "serviseyn", which means “two services” and amounts to 4,000 Lebanese Pounds. When you’d like to get out, you can communicate to the driver that you’d like to get out, and the cab will stop. The concept is similar to Uber Pool, but you don't order it on an app. If you are looking for something that is like Uber Pool that you can order on an app, try Careem. Uber does not yet offer Uber Pool in Lebanon, but Careem offers a pooling system for 3,000 Lebanese pounds ($2.00) per passenger. On a final note, please use caution when considering a service or a Careem Pool after dark. Just as in many large cities, a pooling system may be unsafe for solo female passengers to use at night, and therefore we advise against it.
Historical Sites
There are a number of incredible historical sites in Lebanon, many of which date back to the Iron Age during the height of Phoenician civilization. In addition, there are numerous sites that were established or revamped during the time in which the Roman Empire was at its height.
Here is a list of some places that you should consider visiting while you’re here.
1. Baalbek – The magnificence of the Temple of Bacchus can only be truly appreciated by experiencing these ancient ruins first hand. The temple was built by the Romans atop previous temple that was constructed by the early Canaanite inhabitants, who built the temple for their principal deity, Ba’al, whence the city of Baalbek gets its name. Outside of Rome, it was the largest temple ever built.
2. Sidon (Saida) – Currently under renovation, the Temple of Eshmun is currently free to visit. Built by the Phoenicians, it became a place of healing, and was dedicated to Eshmun, one of the most important deities. In addition to the Temple of Eshmun, the shrine of Zebulon, one of the twelve sons of Jacob, sits idly within stone walls. Once a famous pilgrimage site, the shrine has remained all but forgotten. Though it is not maintained, it is free to visit. Today it is known by locals as maqam el nabi saydoun, and very few know about its true history or what it’s for. Aside from that, the picturesque Sidon Sea Castle, built by the Crusaders is well worth a visit. It faces the old souks of Sidon, as well as several seaside cafes, where you can sit for a relaxing afternoon.
3. Tyre (Soor) – Famous as one of the two main Phoenician city states, and home to the world’s first purple dye, Tyre’s history is written on its physical geography. In the Phoenician language, Soor can be translated to mean rock; however, in the context of its time, this word was most likely a descriptive word to describe an island. This is because in antiquity, Tyre had served as exclusive island and port for the luxury goods of the region. However, the island became connected to the mainland by Alexander the Great, who built a land bridge in 333 BCE in order to conquer the island in spite of its strong resistance. That land bridge exists to today, but has developed into an almost seamless transition from the mainland to the former island. Today, the former island serves as a port, and boasts a colorful and quaint neighborhood with a few small pubs and restaurants. Tyre is also home to some of Lebanon’s best beaches, and is a great summer getaway from the hustle and bustle of the city. Also, don’t forget to check out the hippodrome!
4. Tripoli (Trablos) – Tripoli is the second largest city in Lebanon. Historically, it has operated as an independent city that had strong trade agreements with Aleppo. One of the most famous historical sites is the Tripoli Citadel, which was built by the Mamluks, and the surrounding city is known to bear more of a resemblance to Egyptian structures rather than traditional Lebanese ones. You can also visit the old hammams, or if you’re feeling adventurous, take a 20-minute boat trip to Rabbit island for a day in the sun away from the big city. If you’re in the mood for a stroll, pass by Tripoli’s soap market for a variety of handmade soaps, and don’t forget to try the traditional Arabic sweets at Hallab!
5. Qadisha Valley – For many centuries, this valley has been home to Christian monastic communities. It’s natural geographic landscape has offered protection from the possibility of invasion. In times long ago, the monasteries were built directly into the rocks, and an elaborate cave system served as the main shelter for those pursuing a hermetic lifestyle. Today, the monasteries continue to function, but have been updated and built into the sides of the valley. It is possible to go hiking in the valley, and even stay overnight at the monasteries for a fee. The Our Lady Qannoubine Monastery is one of the monasteries that travelers can stay at. Other monasteries, such as the Saint Elisha Monastery and the Monastery of Antonios Qozhaya are well worth a visit during a hike through the valley. And, if you’re feeling adventurous, you can also visit Dario Escobar, the most famous hermit in Lebanon. Signs pointing to the direction of his home can be found on the main hiking path, and all visitors are generally welcome to enter and pay him a visit.
6. Byblos (Jbeil) – Byblos is known as one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Today, it is a leading city in Lebanon in terms of environmentalist innovations, and a favorite destination for both tourists and Lebanese. It was through the port of Byblos that the Phoenician alphabet was disseminated throughout the Mediterranean, giving way to many of the alphabets we use today—including the Latin Alphabet! In the souks, you can find displays of prehistoric fossils alongside souvenir shops and restaurants. The famous port is also a sight to behold. It sits not far from the Byblos Castle, which was built by the crusaders next to some ancient Phoenician burial grounds on the seaside. In fact, in 1922 a landslide due to heavy rains revealed numerous sarcophagi that had long been forgotten. Among these was the sarcophagus of the famous King Ahiram, which is the centerpiece of the Beirut National Museum. Byblos is also home to one of the best public beaches in Lebanon.
7. Batroun – For a relaxing day in a beautiful town, head up to Batroun. There, you can walk through the old souks, spend a day at the beach, and enjoy some of its famous Lemonade from Hilmi’s House of Lemonade, which also features a small museum that will provide a new perspective on traditional lemonade making in Lebanon. In terms of history, Batroun boasts breathtaking views from the Phoenician wall that was built in antiquity to protect the small city from tidal waves. There are also a number of small rocky beaches to enjoy when the weather is nice.
Nature + Hiking
In Lebanon, there’s no shortage of natural beauty to observe and nature hikes to take part in. Of of the most noteworthy nature excursions to participate it are the Cedars of Lebanon. The two main locations to visit the cedars are in the north near Bsharri, or in the Chouf in Barouk. Both can be reached by car or by tour bus.
As far as hiking trails, one need not look further than the Lebanon Mountain Trail Association (LMTA), which arose in 2006 due to a call to increase eco-tourism. Since then, the LMTA has been working to develop a long system of organized trails from the north to the south, including trails that are suited for family excursions, as well as trails for the seasoned hiker. Information about the variety of trails that the LMTA has worked to develop can be found at www.lebanontrail.org. The LMTA also sponsors programs for individuals or groups in the fields of education, conservation and community development.
Restaurants
Oh the food! One of the highlights of living in Lebanon is most certainly the gastronomical variety that is so deeply embedded in the culture. There are innumerable places to try all the flavors that this country has to offer. A few highlighted restaurants to check out in Beirut are Mezyan and Em Nazih. On Fridays, Em Nazih features live Arabic music, but make sure to take a reservation because these places are also some of the favorites of locals and tend to fill up quickly! For a quieter and more high-end experience, you can try Enab in Gemmayze or Em Sherif located in Downtown Beirut, after which you can enjoy a nice walk in Zaytouna Bay where the Le Yacht Club is located.
One thing that may be different for individuals coming from North America is the task of asking for the check. Unlike in North America, waiters do not ask you if you’re ready for the check. This comes from the idea of making sure that you do not feel rushed and that you enjoy your experience. When you are ready for the check, it is common to signal to the waiter with a polite hand or an index finger in the air. Once the waiter acknowledges you, you can simple say check. You may observe others using a hand gesture in the air as if they are signing an invisible piece of paper while saying the word “check” (haseb in Arabic). As for tipping, it’s customary to leave a tip equal to 10% of the bill, though many individuals choose to leave a slightly bigger tip at high-end restaurants.
Wineries + Breweries
The Mediterranean climate and rich soil of Lebanon make for an idea environment for all sorts of horticulture. If you are a wine connoisseur, or simply enjoy a glass of vino from time to time, then you’ll have to check out the array of wineries that this country has to offer. The Mediterranean climate and rich soil of Lebanon make for an idea environment for all sorts of horticulture. If you are a wine connoisseur, or simply enjoy a glass of vino from time to time, then you’ll have to check out the array of wineries that this country has to offer. Some of the more famous wineries include Chateau Ksara, Chateau Fefraya, and Chateau St. Thomas in the Bekaa Valley. Or, if you would like to experience the taste of wine in the north, then definitely look into paying a visit to IXSIR Winery, Sept Winery, and the Batroun Mountains Organic Winery in the Batroun Governorate.
In addition to the long history of wine-making, an emerging brewing culture is emerging in Lebanon—and these breweries do not disappoint. Around Beirut, check out the Elmir Brewery and Brew Inc. for a taste of some unique beers that can only be found in Lebanon. Or, if you’re venturing north, take some time aside to visit the famous Colonel Beer Microbrewery in Batroun right alongside the Mediterranean Sea.
Money and easy conversion
Most stores, supermarkets and restaurants accept payment in debit card or credit card. They will always ask you if you prefer the amount to be take out in “dollars or Lebanese” (“dolar aw lebnene” in Arabic). This is because both currencies can be used in Lebanon.
It is not uncommon to mix currency as well, so there’s no need to feel shy about handing a store clerk $20.00 and 100,000 LL. On an important side note, when you set up your Lebanese bank account, you will be asked if you want your account in US dollars or Lebanese Pounds. The easiest way to decide is by going with whatever currency your employer pays you in, but depending on your individual case there may be other factors to consider. In the end, it is completely your choice—just keep in mind that there is typically a fee for any money conversions that go through the bank and restaurants.
Supermarkets, Mini Markets, and Delivery
Most stores, supermarkets and restaurants accept payment in debit card or credit card. They will always ask you if you prefer the amount to be take out in “dollars or Lebanese” (“dolar aw lebnene” in Arabic). This is because both currencies can be used in Lebanon. The following is a table that you can study or memorize for quick conversion between dollars and Lebanese. Major supermarkets are available in Lebanon, and you’ll be able to find just about everything you might need. Some of the bigger chains are Spinney’s and Carrefour. For specialty items, look for a Spinney’s signature story (there is one Downtown Beirut). There’s also a large Spinney’s branch located in Dbaye. If you’re specifically looking for American home goods and products, you can take a look at Wesley’s. All items are directly imported from the United States. This means that they’ll be a bit costlier, however it is a good place to find things such as environmentally friendly cleaning products, as well as food items available in bulk. If you’re living closer to the Broumana area, you’ll also find some newer eco-friendly markets where you can shop for home goods.
In addition to the supermarkets, all neighborhoods typically have what’s known as a dekan. A dekan is basically a mini market, and most often the produce that’s available is local and very fresh. Another nice thing about these mini markets is that you get to know the owners if you’re a frequent visitor, and this helps with integration into the community, as local business owners tend to have a vast knowledge about where to find everything you need, including electricians, plumbers and cleaning services. Lastly, most home stoves and ovens operate on gas. If you need a purchase a large can of gas, or exchange your empty can for a full one, this can all be taken care of at the dekan.
One aspect about shopping in Lebanon that may surprise a new resident is the delivery culture. Just about anything under the sun can be delivered to your door, and it is very common to order delivery—even for things such as common household items, toiletries, and alcoholic beverages. All you need to do are two things: 1. Find out which businesses deliver what sorts of things in your area. 2. Know how to explain where you live for the delivery driver. The latter can be a bit more difficult if your building is not well known, but the good news is that the delivery drivers are so well-experienced that they always find your place. If you’re not comfortable talking on the phone, you can also download some phone apps such as zomato, toters and gozilla for restaurant food orders, or the Markit or Instacart app for supermarket food orders. Just be sure that your residence is within the delivery perimeters, and you’re good to go! The apps also allow you to pay by card or by cash, and are a nice option if you can’t find a convenient time to leave home or just want to enjoy an evening in with some delicious take-out.
The BAM Guide.
The BAM is your directory to Lebanon, created by Agenda Culturel. Check all the latest cultural events happening this week on The MYM AGENDA